Sides

Thin slices, cream, a brown top. It can sit next to a roast. It cannot sit next to a packer clock.

In the oven the last 70 minutes of a roast, or while steaks reverse.

Hot potatoes, warm dairy, salt. Lumps are a choice, not a mistake.

Start when the roast has 30 minutes left, or while a steak rests.

A steakhouse potato is a 400°F russet, not foil-steamed mush.

In the oven when a reverse-sear steak goes on, or the last hour of a roast.

Cream, garlic, no cheese. Au gratin is the one with the brown top of Gruyère.

In the oven the last 75 minutes of a ham or a roast.

A pot on the side of the pit. Hock, onion, time.

Start when a packer wraps, or at the beginning of a shoulder.

Cuts fat. Make it in the morning. It should not be mayonnaise soup.

Anytime. Better after an hour in the fridge.

Warm potatoes take dressing. Cool before service.

While the meat rests.

Thick bread, fat, the grate.

When you pull the meat. The rest window.

A tray that can sit next to a roast.

In the oven while a roast rests, or the last stretch of a smoke.

Santa Maria’s other half.

Alongside a tri-tip or skirt.

Golf-ball potatoes, hard heat, drippings if you have them.

Same pan as a roast or chicken. Or a sheet next to chops.

Thick cuts, dry surface, two oils: a fry and a finish.

Par-cook while the steak dry-brines. Finish when the steak rests.

A fast green. It dies if you start it with the potatoes.

When the meat comes off to rest.

Cast iron, a hot fat, a crumb that is not cake.

While a shoulder rests, or the last half hour of ribs.

A long green. Ham hock, onion, vinegar at the end.

On with a shoulder or a ham. They want time, not a grate.

Charred ears, mayo, cotija, lime, chili. Eat it standing up.

On the grate next to the steak, last 10 minutes.

Cut from the cob, a little cream, the starch does the rest.

While chops or a ham rest.

Cold fat, hot oven, do not twist the cutter.

While gravy happens, or a ham comes out.

Cold, sharp, next to something fatty.

Anytime. Better after 20 minutes in the vinegar.

Hard heat, a little honey at the end, not candied.

Same oven as a roast. Last 30 minutes.

A hot skillet, garlic, lemon. Not a casserole.

When the meat rests.

Cubes, hard heat, a little chili. Not a marshmallow.

Same oven as a pork roast or ham.

Thin, twice-fried, salted the second they leave the fat. Not steak fries.

Par-cook while the meat dry-brines. Finish in the rest window.

Boil, smash, hard heat. Crisp lace, soft middle.

Boil while the roast runs. Smash and crisp when it rests.

The waxy roast. Split, hard heat, rosemary if it is in the house.

Same oven as a chicken or a lamb rack.

Bacon, vinegar, onion. Served warm. No mayonnaise.

While sausages or pork chops rest.

Bake, scoop, load, bake again. A steakhouse plate that can sit.

Bake with a roast. Fill and finish in the rest window.

Skin on, eight cuts, hard oven. A fry without the pot of oil.

When burgers or chicken hit the grate.

Diced, onion, a skillet. Breakfast potatoes that also sit with a chop.

While eggs happen, or next to sausage and chops.

The quiet one. Salt, butter, parsley. Next to fish and lamb.

While a fillet or chops finish.

Sliced thin across, still attached, fat in the cuts, a crisp fan.

With a roast or a thick steak in the oven.

Par-cooked slices, onion, hot fat. French diner, not a gratin.

Next to a steak or a chop.

Grated, squeezed dry, one cake, do not touch it.

Breakfast, or under a steak if you want diner energy.

Ten minutes of work. They cut every rich plate.

In the morning, or while the meat is on.

The steakhouse green that is not asparagus.

When the steak rests.

From the garden, on the grate, while the meat rests. Thick planks so they do not collapse.

When the meat comes off. Same rest window as asparagus.

The weeknight garden pan. Onion, garlic, thyme. It should fry, not stew.

While chops rest, or next to sausage.

The pan after a roast or chops. Rice is the plate.

While the meat rests — use that fond.

A pan next to the meat. Molasses, mustard, a little of the brisket fat if you have it.

When a packer wraps, or the last two hours of a shoulder.

Corn, lima beans, butter, a little onion. Summer on the plate next to a chop.

While chops or chicken rest.

Halved, hard heat, a little bacon fat. They should almost burn.

Same oven as a roast, last 25 minutes, or a skillet while steaks rest.

Cornmeal batter, hot oil, a minute. Next to fish and ribs.

When the fish comes off, or the last minutes of ribs.

Cornmeal, hot fat, a short fry. Slimy only if you stew it. This is not a stew.

With fried chicken or catfish.

A baked corn custard that can sit next to a ham. Not creamed corn in a different dish.

In the oven with a ham or a roast, last hour.

The other slaw. Cabbage, mayo, a little vinegar. For fried chicken and pulled pork when vinegar slaw is too sharp.

In the morning. It wants an hour in the fridge.

Ripe tomatoes, thin onion, salt, oil. Next to a steak when the garden is on.

When the steak rests. Only when the tomatoes are actually ripe.

White rice, lime, cilantro, a pinch of salt. The bed for a bowl. Not Spanish rice.

While the steak rests or the turkey browns.

Rice toasted in oil, tomato, onion, cumin. The other Mexican rice. Not cilantro-lime.

Next to enchiladas, rellenos, or a bowl when you want red rice.

Canned is honest on a weeknight. Onion, cumin, a little of the liquid. Not pintos.

Every bowl, every taco night.

Tomato, onion, jalapeño, cilantro, lime, salt. Knife work. Not a blender salsa.

While the meat rests. Only with a tomato that tastes like one.

Ripe avocado, lime, salt, onion, cilantro. Smash, do not puree. The bowl wants a spoon of this.

Last, so it does not brown.

Cream, a spoon of sour cream or buttermilk, salt, an hour on the counter. Thinner than sour cream, tangier than cream.

In the morning, or an hour before the bowls.

Tomato, cucumber, onion, olives, feta, oregano. No lettuce. Horiatiki.

Next to lamb, chicken, or a grilled steak. When the tomatoes are ripe.

Orzo, cucumber, tomato, feta, lemon, oregano. Cold next to grilled meat.

While the lamb or chicken is on the grate. Better after 20 minutes.

Torn pita, tomato, cucumber, herbs, sumac. Crunch, then acid.

Next to lamb kebabs, chicken, or grilled fish.

Parsley first, bulgur second. Lemon, mint, tomato. Not a grain salad with a garnish of green.

Next to lamb, grilled chicken, or kebabs. It wants an hour.

Fine-cut cucumber, tomato, onion, lemon, oil. Every bite the same size.

Next to grilled meat, fish, or a shawarma plate.

Romaine, black beans, corn, avocado, cotija, lime-cumin. Next to asada or a bowl night.

While the steak rests. Also a Tuesday with leftover chicken.

Cabbage, lime, cilantro, a little jalapeño. The taco slaw. Not mayo.

Every taco night. On carnitas, fish, asada.

Jicama, orange, chili, lime, cilantro. Cold crunch next to rich meat.

Next to carnitas, asada, or fried fish.

Ripe avocado, tomato, onion, cilantro, lime. Not guacamole. A knife salad.

While asada or chicken rests. Only with a tomato that tastes like one.

Stale bread, ripe tomato, onion, oil, vinegar. The tomatoes dress the bread.

Next to a steak, roast chicken, or grilled fish. Tomato season only.

Tomato, mozzarella, basil, oil, salt. Stop there.

While a steak or chicken rests. Only in tomato season.

Romaine, anchovy dressing, croutons, Parm. Make the dressing. The bottle is a different salad.

Next to a steak, roast chicken, or as the whole plate with a grilled chicken breast.

Iceberg, blue cheese, bacon, tomato. A steakhouse plate, not a health plate.

Next to a ribeye, strip, or porterhouse.

Tuscan kale, lemon, oil, Parm. Massage it or it fights you.

Next to roast chicken, pork chops, or salmon.

Peppery leaves, lemon, oil, Parm. The fastest thing next to a steak.

While the steak rests. Also next to lamb and pizza-night leftovers.

Cold melon, feta, mint, lime. Next to grilled meat in the heat.

Ribs, chicken, lamb, a hot afternoon.

Cabbage, rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger. Next to char siu, kalbi, or grilled fish.

While the meat rests. Better after 20 minutes.

Roasted beets, orange, goat cheese or feta, walnuts. Earth and acid.

Beets in the oven with a roast. Assemble when they cool.

Chicken, bacon, egg, avocado, tomato, blue cheese. A composed plate, not a toss.

Leftover chicken night. Also a full dinner.

Charred corn, cotija, chili, lime, short pasta. Cold next to grilled meat.

While the steak or chicken is on the grate. Better after 20 minutes in the fridge.

Raw or barely blistered kernels, tomato, lime, cilantro. The cob, not the can.

Next to anything off the grate. August.

Browned beef or chorizo, tomatoes, melted cheese. A dip that eats like supper with chips.

A snack night, or on the table with tacos.